How to use FFE-200 Marine Epoxy for Fairing

Teakdecking Systems’ FFE-200 Marine Epoxy is well-known for securely bonding modular teak decking systems to large and small vessels. The product’s secondary purpose – fairing – is a secret worth discovering. This article shows how to use FFE-200 Marine Epoxy for fairing.


Generally, an epoxy adhesive and an epoxy fairing compound should not be found in the same pair of plastic tubs. Epoxy adhesives typically cure to a very hard surface, while fairing compounds are much softer (to create a surface that is easy to fair with sanding). The fillers used in fairing compounds reduce the epoxy’s adhesive strength, normally making the compound unsuitable as an adhesive.



However, Teakdecking Systems developed a unique and proprietary formulation product that blends the two functions of bonding and fairing.


A yacht’s deck being smoothed with FFE-200 Compound, ensuring a seamless, even surface for optimal performance

NOTE: FFE-200 is now a brownish color, due to customers’ requests.

Tips from a local Sarasota sailor who has faired a lot of large and small surfaces:

  1. The simple 1:1 mix ratio is accurate and fast compared to a full kit (base + hardener) of a commercial fairing compound or resin system because of its unequal mix ratio.
  2. FFE-200 can be spread easily over large surfaces during deck installations used as a leveling compound to fair the structural deck before teak deck installation. The ‘out of the can’ consistency is perfect for filling pinholes and slight depressions on surfaces.
  3. The FFE-200 Base Resin and Activator are degassed well by TDS, so there is no entrapped air in the cured compound when thoroughly* mixed. Few pinholes appear as the surface is sanded. Painters appreciate pinhole-free faired surfaces.

*Fun Fact about Mixing – When mixing polyester resin and its catalyst MEKP (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide), the catalyst starts a chain reaction within the resin, like the match that starts the fire. However, when mixing epoxies, Activator molecules are linked with the Base Resin molecules. For effective results, thoroughly mix the Base Resin with the Activator, so they link up. During mixing, be sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the mixing container to avoid leaving un-mixed components around the edges.

To illustrate how FFE-200 can work for vessels big and small, a recently completed project is a rudder for a small performance sailboat.


Teakdecking Systems FFE-200 being applied to a rudder, ensuring a smooth and fair surface

The rudder has two issues – the leading edge was too blunt, and the two sides were not symmetrical, causing the boat to pull to one side. Here, the leading edge has already been corrected with FFE-200 over a core of glass strands. The curve on the contour gauge is the shape of the other side of the rudder. For a small rudder, that gap between the contour gauge and the surface represents a lot of side-to-side difference.



To fill that gap, plus a bit more for fairing, FFE-200 was used.


TDS' FFE-200 applied to a rudder, compensating for uneven sides to ensure ship stays on course


The rudder was cross-sanded up through the grits with a 9” sanding block. The sanding block or longboard size should be proportional to the size and shape of the faired surface – bigger is better, but harder to handle.


Teakdecking Systems FFE-200 used for fairing a rudder, cross-sanded with a 9” sanding block

The contour gauge in the next photo shows that the port and starboard sides of the rudder now match.

Teakdecking Systems FFE-200 used for fairing a rudder, with a contour gauge showing matched sides

A pretty rudder blade meant the housing needed attention too. Here it is before starting:

Teakdecking Systems FFE-200 used for fairing a rudder blade housing, showing the contour before starting

After fairing:

Teakdecking Systems FFE-200 used for fairing a rudder blade housing, showing the contour AFTER starting.

Ready for the topcoat after the final sanding of the high-build primer:

Teakdecking Systems FFE-200 used for fairing a rudder blade housing, ready for topcoat application.

The finished product is ready to go sailing…!


**Alt text**:

The results are fantastic, and we thank our customer for sharing these photos of using FFE-200 Marine Epoxy for fairing.


For questions about FFE-200

Visit our website for more product information.

Or call our experts: 941-756-0600 and press “1”



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February 13, 2026
For that reason, you want to start by discussing the project with the service manager at the yard that normally services the boat. In that discussion, you will want to learn the following: Is there a shed or watertight tent large enough to enclose the project, or is there another solution for preventing the weather from causing damage or delay? If the boat is hauled, can it be staged with scaffolding for safety, if necessary? Does the yard have qualified personnel to perform the necessary tasks? These include: Properly protecting the boat's surfaces from damage during the refit. Removing any deck hardware that is in the way, this may require taking down headliners or removing interior trim to access the fasteners. If a replacement teak deck is required, can and how will they remove the existing teak without damaging the rest of the vessel, including the structural deck beneath the current teak deck? After removing the existing teak, are they qualified to inspect and make any necessary repairs to the structural deck? On fiberglass boats, damage may appear as soft spots due to compromised structural core material. In some cases, on metal vessels, it may be necessary to replace damaged sections of plating. Do they have marine carpentry skills to properly final fit and install the new modular teak deck system? With the new deck installed, do they know how to reinstall the deck hardware properly and, if a sailboat, install and tune the rig? Are they capable of re-commissioning the vessel and any systems disabled during the refit? What is the proposed schedule and timeline for the refit? What is the estimated budgetary cost, and which of these costs can be assured? If the yard is not a suitable fit for the project, can they recommend an alternative solution?
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